The Daintree Rainforest is a beautiful Far North Queensland rainforest, part of the Wet Tropics and a World Heritage Rainforest. The Mossman Gorge rainforest area is the southern part of the Daintree National Park 
.
Mossman Gorge Centre
The Dreamtime Walks began by Roy Gibson in 1987. A few years later, the idea of the Mossman Gorge Centre can to Roy in a dream. The centre has helped strengthen the tourism industry for the Aboriginal community and a way to keep the culture alive. It is providing jobs and sharing the culture and environment with tourists and the Bama Kuku Yalanji people.
With the increase in tourism popularity, the centre also provides a solution to the minimal parking availability where the walks begin. A shuttle bus operates from the centre where there is plenty of parking space, to the start of the walking trails for Mossman Gorge.
The centre consists of a shop, art gallery, and a cafe. The art gallery is focused on arts and crafters by local Kuki Yalanji artists, including traditional and more contemporary styles and themes. The shop extends this with keepsakes of which many of these are also produced by the local community.
Walking Tracks
Mossman Gorge Centre is worth visiting but it isn’t the main reason for visiting Mossman Gorge. It is the scenery of the beautiful rainforest and gorge of Mossman River. The walking tracks is where you get to see it all from.
The river gorge is focus of this part of the Daintree Rainforest. The rainforest itself is something to marvel at. It is the oldest continuously surviving rainforest in the world. Containing an estimated 30,000 species of plants and animals in one hectare, the Daintree Rainforest is also one of the most complex ecosystems.
There are three main walking tracks that take you through the beautiful rainforest of Mossman Gorge. They are the Baral Marrjanga, Lower River Track, and the longer Rainforest Circuit Track.
A shuttle bus operates between the Mossman Gorge Centre and the picnic area where the walking tracks start from. The bus follows along Mossman River. The bus ride itself has beautiful scenery of the gorge with the best viewing seats on the right side of the bus. The buses leave every 15 minutes so you don’t have to wait too long.
Picnic Area
The picnic area is where the shuttle bus drops you off. The picnic area is fairly simple with an open grass area with a few picnic tables and a toilet block.
Baral Marrjanga
Baral Marrjanga is the first walking track you come across and is an easy 270 metre walk. The path is very easy and flat, with parts on an elevated platform through the lower canopy of the rainforest.
It leads to the Mossman River Lookout with the path wheelchair accessible all the way to the lookout. It is a taste of the Daintree Rainforest that everyone can experience.
Mossman River Lookout
The Mossman River Lookout is a supported viewing platform over the edge of the river. The platform gives an unobstructed view upstream of Mossman Gorge
Lower River Track
The lower river track returns from the lookout back to the picnic area, following along the edge of the Mossman River. This is not wheelchair accessible, but it is still an easy track to walk on.
Swimming is allowed at a designated swimming area where the water is quite calm, downstream from the rapid waters near the lookout. Even though it was winter when we were there and the weather wasn’t the greatest, there were a few who ventured in for a swim.
Rex Creek Suspension Bridge
Rex Creek is a short walk further upstream after the Mossman River Lookout. Rex Creek is a divide that would limit access by visitors to the rest of the rainforest.
In 1986, the construction of a suspension bridge began. All of the building materials were carried in, including 20 tonnes of aggregate carried in 20-kilogram bags on a 700m track. To save on costs, the Australian Army helped build the original bridge.
The bridge became a souvenir photo spot for visitors until 2009 when it had to be closed due to deterioration from age. The current bridge was built in 2010, this time prefabricated and flown in by helicopter.
Crossing the Rex Creek suspension bridge takes you to where the Rainforest Circuit Track walk.
Rainforest Circuit Track
Starting from Rex Creek Bridge, the Rainforest Circuit Track is a 2.4km return circuit. While this track is more difficult than the Baral Marrjanga track, it is easy to follow and suitable for just about anyone.
The Rainforest Circuit Track is where you will experience the rainforest best. Without the walking platforms, it feels more natural. There tends to be less people walking along here as well so you get to experience the rainforest without other around. Although, it is only for short moments as it is still popular, just less than elsewhere.
The walk doesn’t take too long to walk if you rush through. Taking the extra time to take in all the little bits and pieces is well rewarded. Nature has so many beautiful shapes and patterns to show you if you stop to look for them. It took us 2 hours to walk the 2.4 kilometres of the Rainforest Circuit Track and we could have spent more if we hadn’t had other places to be.
Strangler fig trees are a common sighting in rainforests and often provide interesting shapes from taking over other trees that once supported them. We came across one odd growth of a fig tree that I haven’t seen anything like it before. Two trees connected together by a branch that sits elevated less than a metre from the ground.
It looks like part of the tree on the left has fallen at some time and connected itself to the tree on the right. Over time, as the tree has grown, it has lifted itself off the ground. The branch halfway along looks like it has originated from the left tree due to the angle it has grown from it. It fascinated me and I wonder how many years it has taken to reach this point.
Fig trees are everywhere, large and small. Some are more elaborate and more ancient than others as the cycle of new and old continues. The trail takes you through the old and also others with dense and rich green growth.
The living trees are not the only thing to admire through the rainforest. A variety of fungus can be found on the damp forest floor. The fungus helps in the process of the wood of fallen trees to break down and decay. The protected moisture under the rainforest canopy is ideal for fungi to bloom.
Wurrmbu Creek
A small detour off the Rainforest Circuit Track takes you to Wurrmbu Creek. This was a beautiful side detour, well worth the extra 120 metres each way. The water was so crystal clear and the fresh smell of rainforest makes you feel refreshed just being there. I had the urge to dunk my head in the water and take a big gulp of what I imagine to be the sweetest of fresh waters.
The water, being so clear, seemed to be deeper than it appeared. Fish were swimming across the sand from time to time. It was a genuine gift to see it with no other person there at the time.
It was then unfortunate that a group of people came through and a couple of them jumped in. It stirred up the water which became murky, losing a lot of its beauty. The shame with it was that there are areas set for swimming at Mossman Gorge, but this wasn’t one of them. No doubt it was a wonderful experience for them. It then detracted the experience for everyone else after them, many of which wouldn’t have known what they have missed out seeing.
Dreamtime Gorge Walk
To learn more about dreamtime stories, identifying bush food, and traditions like making bush soaps, the Dreamtime Gorge Walk adds to the experience. An experienced Kuku Yalanji guide takes you through the rainforest, starting with a smoking ceremony to welcome you and protect you from harm.
The dreamtime story tells of how the area was formed. Kurbirri, a good spirit in the form of a man, showed the people what they could eat, what is poisonous, and how to prepare foods so they can be eaten without harm.
Wurrmbu, an evil spirit, later came and made the food more difficult to find. Kubirri asked the people and animals to follow him up into the mountains. Only the animals followed as the people were scared. Wurrmbu cursed Kubirri and the animals, turning them to stone.
Now, looking at the top of the mountains, Kubirri can be seen standing between the animals and Wurrmbu, holding him back and protecting the animals from harm.
At the end of the guided walk, freshly made damper and billy tea is enjoyed. Also included with the gorge walk tickets is the shuttle bus tickets, adding to the value of the guided walk.
The 90-minute guided tours leave the Mossman Gorge Centre four times each day, at 10am, 11am, 1pm, and 2pm.
To Get There
From Wet Tropics Visitor Information Centre (Port Douglas), head north on the Captain Cook Hwy following for 13.7km into Mossman. Turn left into Johnston Rd at the brown sign for Mossman Gorge and follow for 2.8km, becoming Mossman Gorge Rd, to a roundabout. Take the first exit to go into the parking area of Mossman Gorge Centre.
Coming into Mossman heading north on Captain Cook Hwy, after passing the Welcome to Mossman sign, continue for another 2.3km and turn left into Johnston Rd at the brown sign for Mossman Gorge. Follow for 2.8km, becoming Mossman Gorge Rd, to a roundabout. Take the first exit to go into the parking area of Mossman Gorge Centre.
Coming into Mossman heading south on Mossman Daintree Rd, after passing the Welcome to Mossman sign, continue for another 1.1km into Mossman. Veer left at the railway line then the first right at the Exchange Hotel into Captain Cook Hwy following the green sign to Cairns. Follow Caption Cook Hwy for 550m and turn right into Johnston Rd at the brown sign for Mossman Gorge. Follow for 2.8km, becoming Mossman Gorge Rd, to a roundabout. Take the first exit to go into the parking area of Mossman Gorge Centre.
